PROGRAM INFO
This past July ARTIS conducted its trip to the very ancient country
of Greece. Steeped in history, prehistory, natural beauty, and rich
culture; everyone found something artistically inspirational on this
trip.
Consisting of a group of painters, drawers, photographers,
sculptors, and designers; we traveled for three weeks drawing and
taking photos at archeological sites, museums, monasteries, villages,
and other amazing locations.
Everyone learned about the multiplicity and diversity of art
found throughout Greece. We studied not only about antiquity (the
classical age, Minoans, Mycenaeans, Romans, etc); but about
Byzantium, traditional pottery, folk art, contemporary war memorials,
and even about Greek music and dance. In this way each of us could
discover and leave with something that touched and intrigued us the
most.
We limited our travels to three parts of the country. The first
was the city of Athens and the land directly to the west of it where
Delphi lies. Second was the large body of land south of Athens
called the Peloponnese. And third was the island of Crete.
Our trip began through the Peloponnese. Here we saw Mycenaean
and classical treasures. Some sites included: the ancient theater of
Epidaurus which is famous for its acoustics and the fact that it has
survived almost intact; Mycenae where the famous Lion Gate stands;
Nemea where pan-hellenic athletic games were held; and Olympia where
additional games were held. At each location we were certain to take
time to draw and take photographs in the museums and among the ruins.
Moreover, we visited many additional locations that were not part
of the ancient world. One was a a small mountain village named
Stemnitsa. A town known for its silver smiths, The ARTIS group found
time to relax and sketch the stone architecture and narrow streets.
Off the main tourist route we all had time to discover village life
and share a delicious dinner together.
Our guide led, directed, and educated us through the country.
Each location was not one hundred percent preplanned and the group's
sense of discovery and flexibility led us to stop off the beaten
path. One of these stops was a World War Two memorial that
fascinated everyone. The Kalavrta Memorial is a multi media site
specific installation commemorating the location where 1500 men
(almost all the men in the village) were massacred by the Germans.
The memorial begins with a voice that tells the viewer the story of
the tragedy through a speaker (in Greek). Slabs, reminiscent of the
Vietnam memorial in DC or Richard Serra's massive sculptures, lined
the entrance and the mountainside. Moreover, there is a small church
with thousands of commemorative incense holders, a cross outside, and
carved stone sculptures. We were all impressed.
Upon leaving the Peloponnese we visited the archeological site of
Delphi where the temple to Apollo stands and where the oracles of the
ancient world spoke of one's destiny. Lots of free time there
allowed us to visit the museum a couple of times and take a side trip
to the village of Galaxidi for a swim.
Furthermore, we visited many monasteries. The first, Saint
Prodromos, was in the Peloponnese and is built into cliffs
overlooking the Loussios Gorge. Here we were honored as visitors and
served sweets by the monks. The second was the Byzantine monastery
of Ossios Loukas. The third monastery was Agia Keriaki (Saint
Sunday). This is a Monastery in the beautiful Cretan mountains where
nuns actively paint mural size icons for churches. They are
currently working on a project for a large Greek Orthodox Church in
Germany. Here we were able to talk to them and see their works in
progress. This experience was special because in a year or two the
projects will be completed and the monastery may no longer function
as a studio.
Our stay on the island of Crete began in the small city of Chania
and everyone had the chance to discover Greek urban life. We had the
opportunity to wander through the city, snorkel, hike the Samaria
Gorge (the longest Gorge in Europe), sketch, take photographs, or sit
and relax at the hotel swimming pool.
Some sites seen in Crete included: a trip to the Orthodox Academy
where we were given a lesson on traditional icon painting; and the
village of Margarites where a potter named Manolis makes pottery in
the old ways without modern technology. He throws pots on an old
kick wheel with local clay that he processes, and fires in an stone
kiln fueled with wood. There are few potters left in twenty first
century Greece that insist on doing their craft traditionally.
Hence, Manolis is a dying breed.
Of course we visited the Minoan palace of Knossos and the
museum. However, a strike of museum workers prevented us from
entering the Minoan Phestos.
Our trip ended with a relaxing few days in a small beach village
named Kalamaki. We arrived in time for a festival devoted to Saint
Elias which included Cretan Music, dance, and food. In this quaint
and picturesque location we had time to complete our artworks,
reflect, and relax.
Our last day was spent in Athens and then we were home again in the USA.
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